Screen printing artwork has three non-negotiable requirements: it must be vector or high-resolution raster (so it scales without pixelation), it must use spot colors, not RGB or CMYK blends (each color in the design becomes a separate screen, so a 6-color design needs 6 screens), and every element must be large enough to hold detail when printed on fabric (fine lines under 1 pt and text under 18 pt tend to fill in or break down). Get these three right and your artwork will print cleanly. Miss any of them and you’ll spend money on revisions or end up with a print that doesn’t match your expectation.
This guide covers the full artwork preparation process for screen printing: the right software and file formats, how color separation works, resolution and size requirements, design rules specific to screen printing, and what to send when you’re handing off to a printer. It applies whether you’re designing a t-shirt for your own use, building a brand merch collection, or setting up a corporate apparel program.
Screen printing vs other decoration methods: what makes artwork different
Screen printing is a physical process. A separate mesh screen is created for each color in your design, each screen is coated with emulsion, exposed with your artwork, and then ink is pushed through the mesh onto the garment one color at a time. This is why artwork that works well for digital printing (photography, gradients, CMYK blends) behaves differently in screen printing.
The practical consequences for design:
- Each color = one screen = one setup fee. Fewer colors = lower cost and simpler production.
- Colors must be solid, flat areas or controlled halftone dots, not continuous gradients (unless using a specialty process like simulated process printing).
- Colors in your design cannot overlap with transparency or blend modes. Every element must be one solid color with defined edges.
- The garment color counts as a “color” in your design. A white tee with a two-color print has no white ink cost; a black tee with the same design needs an extra white underbase screen.

File format: vector is the standard
Vector files are the professional standard for screen printing artwork because they are resolution-independent: you can scale a vector design from a business card to a billboard with no quality loss. Every line, shape, and text element is defined mathematically rather than as a grid of pixels, so there’s no blurriness at any size.
Accepted vector formats:
- AI (Adobe Illustrator): The industry standard. If you work in Illustrator, save as AI and confirm all fonts are outlined (converted to paths) so the printer’s computer doesn’t need your fonts installed.
- EPS: Encapsulated PostScript, widely accepted by all professional printers. Export from Illustrator or Corel as EPS.
- PDF (vector PDF): A PDF that contains vector paths (not a scanned or rasterized PDF) is acceptable. Confirm with your printer.
- SVG: Acceptable for web-based design tools (Canva Pro, Inkscape), but confirm your printer accepts it.
- CDR (CorelDRAW): Native Corel format; widely used in screen print shops.
If you’re working in raster (Photoshop, GIMP): You can create acceptable screen printing artwork in raster, but the resolution requirements are strict. Export as a TIFF or PSD at minimum 300 DPI at the actual print size, with each color on its own layer. 300 DPI is the minimum; 600 DPI is preferred for tight detail. Never send a screen printing file as a JPG: the compression artifacts become visible in the film positive and contaminate the screen.
Color setup: spot colors, not RGB or CMYK
This is the single most common artwork mistake. Screen printing inks are mixed as Pantone Matching System (PMS) spot colors, not blended from CMYK process inks. If you design in RGB (the default in Photoshop and most design apps), your colors will shift when converted to ink because RGB values don’t map directly to any specific mixed ink.
The correct workflow:
- Design in Illustrator or CorelDRAW using Pantone Solid Coated swatches for each color in your design.
- Each Pantone color becomes one layer in your file, one screen in production.
- Give your printer the Pantone number for each color (e.g., PMS 286 C for a true royal blue) so they can mix the ink precisely.
If you don’t have access to Pantone swatches or a Pantone fan deck, specify colors using the closest visual reference you can: “as close as possible to [brand color reference]” or a hex code that your printer can match from their ink library. Most professional screen printers can match standard Pantone colors from a hex reference, but specifying the Pantone number gives you the most accurate result.
Color count: fewer is better
Each color in your design requires a separate screen, a separate setup cost, and a separate pass through the press. The relationship between color count and cost is linear: a 4-color design costs roughly twice as much to set up as a 2-color design. For branded apparel and merch at volume, keeping designs to 1 to 4 colors is the most cost-efficient range.
- 1 color: Lowest cost, highest contrast. A single-color design on a contrasting garment is often more visually impactful than a 6-color design on the same tee.
- 2 to 3 colors: The sweet spot for most branded apparel. Enough for a professional, multi-element design without significant cost increase.
- 4 to 6 colors: Appropriate for more detailed logos and illustrations. Setup cost increases with each color.
- 7 or more colors: Consider simulated process printing (which mimics CMYK with a limited spot-color palette) or DTG printing (direct-to-garment, which handles unlimited colors at no color-count cost, but with different aesthetic qualities).
Special inks, metallic (silver, gold), neon, glow-in-the-dark, and puff inks, each count as an additional color/screen and add to setup cost.
Design size, resolution, and garment placement
Screen printing artwork should be created at the exact size it will print. For vector files this is less critical (you can scale at any point), but for raster files it’s essential: the 300 DPI minimum applies at print size, not at screen viewing size.
Standard placement dimensions for reference:
- Left chest logo: 3 to 4 inches wide. Positioned 3 to 4 inches from the left shoulder seam and 6 to 8 inches from the collar.
- Full front / center chest: 10 to 12 inches wide. The largest standard front print area.
- Full back: 10 to 12 inches wide, centered on the back panel between shoulder blades and waist.
- Sleeve print: 3 to 4 inches wide, positioned 2 to 3 inches below the shoulder seam.
- Pocket area: 3 to 4 inches wide on the upper chest, similar to left chest positioning.
When in doubt, provide your artwork at the largest intended print size and let the printer scale down as needed. Scaling down from a large vector is fine; scaling up from a small raster is not.
Design rules specific to screen printing

These are the technical constraints that separate artwork that prints cleanly from artwork that causes problems:
- Minimum line weight: 1 pt (0.35 mm). Lines thinner than 1 pt fill in when ink is pushed through the mesh. On dark garments where underbase is required, the minimum increases to 1.5 to 2 pt because the underbase can cause slight edge bleed.
- Minimum text size: 18 pt for standard ink, 24 pt for specialty inks. Small text loses legibility because the counter (the open space in letters like “e,” “a,” and “o”) fills in with ink. For reversed-out text (light text on dark garment), increase minimum size by 20%.
- No drop shadows or outer glows from Photoshop layer effects: These create semi-transparent pixels that don’t separate cleanly into spot colors. Recreate any shadow effects as solid-color shapes.
- No soft edges or feathered selections: All edges must be hard. Soft edges don’t translate to a film positive. If you want a faded or worn look, build it with halftone dots or textured vector shapes, not Photoshop blur.
- Outline all fonts: In Illustrator, select all text and use Type > Create Outlines before saving. This converts text to vector paths so the printer’s system doesn’t need your font installed.
- No white in a “white” file for white garments: White ink on a white garment is invisible. Make sure your design’s white elements are either removed (letting the garment show through) or actively specified as white ink if you’re printing on a colored garment.
Halftones: creating tonal depth in screen printing
When you want the appearance of a color gradient or tonal variation in screen printing, you use halftone dots: tiny dots of a single ink color that vary in size to create the illusion of lighter and darker areas. The ink is always the same opacity; the optical mix of dot and garment creates the tonal effect.
For clean halftone printing: use a 45-degree halftone angle (the standard, least-moiré-prone angle), a 45 to 55 lpi (lines per inch) dot frequency for standard fabric printing, and test print before committing to a full run because halftone results vary significantly by mesh count, ink viscosity, and fabric weave.
In Illustrator, create halftones manually by converting a gradient to a mesh of circles at varying sizes. In Photoshop, use Filter > Pixelate > Color Halftone, but remember to export at high resolution and ensure the dots are large enough to hold on the screen (minimum 10% to 90% dot range; anything below 10% or above 90% tends to fill in or bridge).
What to send your screen printer
When you’re ready to hand off to a professional shop, send:
- Your artwork file: Vector AI or EPS preferred; high-resolution TIFF or PSD (300+ DPI at print size) if raster. Never send a JPG for screen printing.
- Color callouts: Pantone numbers for each color in the design. If you don’t have Pantone numbers, provide the best reference you can (hex code, physical color reference).
- Placement and size: Where on the garment and the width and height of the print area in inches.
- Garment color and style: The printer needs to know the garment color to assess whether an underbase is required and to check that your ink colors will be visible.
- Quantity: Affects pricing per unit and may affect which printing press configuration is used.
- Any existing separated files: If your artwork has already been color-separated (each color on a separate layer or in a separate file), provide those. It saves the printer time and reduces the chance of separation errors.
MFG Merch’s screen printing service in Jacksonville, Florida accepts vector and raster files, handles color separation in-house, and provides a digital proof before production. Send your artwork, garment spec, and quantity to get a quote.
Software tools for creating screen printing artwork
- Adobe Illustrator: The professional standard. Vector-native, Pantone swatch libraries built in, and the “Create Outlines” feature handles font conversion automatically. If you’re serious about screen printing design, Illustrator is worth learning.
- CorelDRAW: The industry alternative to Illustrator, widely used in screen printing shops. Less common in brand/agency work but equally capable.
- Inkscape (free, open-source): A capable free alternative to Illustrator. Exports to SVG and EPS. The learning curve is steeper and the Pantone library handling is less smooth, but it produces professional-grade vector artwork.
- Adobe Photoshop: Acceptable for raster artwork if you work at 300+ DPI and keep colors on separate layers. Not ideal for text-heavy or logo-centric designs where vector is always cleaner.
- Canva Pro: Produces vector PDF exports from its vector-element designs. Accessible for non-designers but limited in Pantone color control and separation capability. Suitable for simple designs; less suitable for complex multi-color work.
- Kittl, Adobe Express, and similar tools: Can produce usable screen printing files for simple designs. Confirm export format and resolution before sending to a printer.
Common screen printing artwork mistakes
- Sending a JPG: JPG compression creates artifacts in fine details and edges. Always send TIFF, PSD, AI, EPS, or PDF.
- Designing in RGB and not converting colors to Pantone: RGB colors shift significantly when converted to ink. Specify Pantone from the start or accept that the printer will match as closely as possible from a visual reference.
- Including transparent elements: Transparency doesn’t separate. Convert all transparent elements to solid-color equivalents before sending.
- Not outlining fonts: If the printer’s system doesn’t have your font, text displays in a substitute font and the design changes. Always outline.
- Underestimating the white underbase cost on dark garments: Printing any color other than black on a dark garment requires a white underbase screen first, which adds a color to your count and cost. Factor this in when designing for dark garments.
- Fine detail that won’t hold: What looks crisp on screen at 100% zoom often doesn’t survive the physical printing process at small sizes. Print a test or ask your printer to flag anything under 1 pt before going to production.
Frequently asked questions
What file format is best for screen printing?
Vector AI or EPS is the professional standard: resolution-independent, color-accurate, and easiest for the printer to work with. If you’re in Photoshop, export as a layered TIFF or PSD at 300+ DPI at print size. Never send a JPG for screen printing; the compression artifacts cause problems in film positives and screen exposure.
How many colors can a screen print have?
Technically as many as you want, but each color adds a screen, a setup fee, and a production pass. Most apparel screen printing is done in 1 to 6 colors for cost efficiency. 7 or more colors usually leads printers to recommend simulated process printing or switching to DTG (direct-to-garment) for unlimited colors.
Can I use gradients in screen printing?
Standard screen printing can’t reproduce continuous gradients. To create the appearance of gradients or tonal variation, you use halftone dots: varying sizes of a single-color dot that optically blend with the garment to create light-to-dark transitions. Simulated process printing (using multiple spot colors in halftone patterns) can approximate photographic color, but it requires more colors and a skilled printer.
What is the minimum text size for screen printing?
18 pt is the standard minimum for most ink types. For specialty inks or printing on textured fabric, increase to 24 pt. Reversed-out text (light text on a dark garment) should be at least 20 to 24 pt because ink tends to fill the counters (the enclosed spaces in letters like “e” and “a”) on the underbase pass.
Do I need to separate colors before sending to a printer?
Not necessarily. Most professional screen printers handle color separation in-house as part of their prepress process. What you must do is ensure each color in your design is a separate, identifiable element (separate layers in Photoshop; separate objects in Illustrator) and that you specify the Pantone number or color reference for each. If you’ve already separated the file, most printers appreciate it as it reduces their prep time.
The bottom line
Great screen printing artwork is vector or high-resolution raster, uses spot colors specified by Pantone number, keeps each element as a solid (not transparent or gradient) area, and respects the minimum line weight and text size constraints that the physical printing process imposes. A 2-color design built on these principles will print more consistently and more cleanly than an 8-color design that ignores them.
If you’re ready to send your design to print, MFG Merch’s screen printing service in Jacksonville, Florida handles artwork review, color separation, and production in-house, with low minimums and nationwide shipping. Send your file, garment spec, and quantity to get a quote and a proof back before production begins.


