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A tech pack is a document that tells a manufacturer exactly how to build your garment. It contains every specification a factory needs to produce your design accurately. Without a complete tech pack, manufacturers must guess at the details you have not provided, and those guesses become defects in bulk production.
Brands that skip a detailed tech pack often face significant delays, incorrect samples, and wasted development budgets. This guide covers how to build a professional-grade document that factories can actually use.
You face a common struggle: factories often ignore vague sketches or inconsistent notes. If you fail to communicate technical specifics, you invite production errors that drain your margins. This article provides a clear, step-by-step roadmap for creating a factory-ready tech pack that minimizes sample rounds and ensures consistent bulk output.
A complete tech pack includes seven key sections: design flats and colorways, fabric and trim specifications, measurement specs with graded size charts and tolerances, construction and sewing instructions, label and branding placement, washing and care instructions, and packaging specifications. Each section gives the factory exact production requirements, preventing mistakes, delays, and costly assumptions during manufacturing.
Here is what each section must contain and why each one matters in production.
The design overview is the first page of the tech pack and gives the factory context for what they are building. It includes the style name, style number, season, colorways, and a brief description of the garment category and intended use. This context matters because it informs decisions at every later stage.
Technical flat sketches show the garment from the front, back, and any relevant detail views such as collar construction, pocket placement, or cuff finish. These must be accurate proportional drawings, not illustrative fashion figures. Every seam, stitch line, topstitch, and design detail must be visible and labeled. Annotations point to specific construction elements with callouts that cross-reference the relevant specification sections.
The materials section specifies every component of the garment in enough detail that the manufacturer can source an identical or approved-equivalent material. This includes the shell fabric, lining, interlining, and all trim components such as zippers, buttons, elastics, and labels.
For each fabric, specify fiber content as a percentage, GSM, yarn count, knit or weave construction type, and any finishing treatments such as compaction, sanforization, or enzyme washing. A reference to a physical swatch or a lab standard helps, but the written specification must stand alone without a sample. “Soft cotton jersey similar to Brand X” is not a material specification. “100% combed ring-spun cotton, 180 GSM, 30s yarn, single jersey, compacted to under 3% residual shrinkage” is.
Trim specifications must be equally precise. A zipper spec includes the brand, gauge, tape color, slider style, and puller type. A button spec includes diameter in millimeters, number of holes, material, and shank height. Vague trim descriptions result in incorrect components being ordered at scale, which delays production and adds cost.
The measurement spec is the most technically critical section of the tech pack. It defines every point of measure (POM) on the garment — chest width, body length, sleeve length, armhole, neck opening, hem width, and all other relevant dimensions. Each measurement is taken at a specific location on the garment using a standardized method, and both the measurement and the method must be documented.
Every point of measure must have a tolerance — the acceptable variance above and below the target measurement. A chest width of 54cm with a plus or minus 1cm tolerance means the factory can produce garments between 53cm and 55cm and have them pass quality control. Without tolerances, there is no defined standard for acceptance or rejection.
A graded size chart extends the base measurement spec across every size in the range. Each size has its own complete set of measurements derived from the grade rule — the amount each measurement increases or decreases per size break. The grade rule must be documented for every POM so the factory can verify that the graded specs are internally consistent before cutting begins.
The construction section documents how the garment is assembled. This includes stitch types, stitch density (stitches per inch), seam allowances, seam types, and the order of assembly operations where sequence matters. It also covers any special construction requirements such as reinforced stress points, bartacking locations, chain stitching versus lockstitching, and seam finishing methods.
For each seam type, specify the machine type required, the thread count and fiber content, and whether topstitching is required and at what distance from the seam. If the garment has a specific assembly sequence that affects the final appearance — for example, a set-in sleeve that must be sewn before the side seam is closed — that sequence must be documented here.
Construction specifications also cover any special operations such as bonding, heat pressing, fusing interlining, or waterproof seam taping. Each of these operations has parameters — temperature, pressure, dwell time — that must be specified for consistent results across a bulk run.
The label placement section documents where every label and branding element is positioned on the garment. This includes the main brand label, size label, care label, country of origin label, and any decorative labels or woven patches. Each element has a precise placement specified in centimeters from a reference point such as the center back seam or collar fold.
Embroidery, screen print, heat transfer, and other decoration elements are also documented here. For each decoration, specify the placement coordinates, the size of the decoration area, the colors used with Pantone references, and any special requirements such as puff ink, discharge printing, or metallic thread. Reference the artwork files by filename so the factory uses the correct version.
Hardware placement — including zipper pulls, aglets, snap buttons, and rivets — must be specified with the same coordinate-based precision. A rivet that is 2cm off from its specified position is a quality rejection in a professional production run.
Care instructions in a tech pack specify both the content of the care label and the instructions that must be tested before the label is finalized. The care symbols and text must be appropriate for the actual fabric composition and construction of the garment — not generic defaults.
For any garment containing multiple fiber types, the care instruction must reflect the most delicate component. If the shell is 100% polyester but the lining is 100% rayon, the care label must follow rayon care requirements even though the outer fabric would tolerate more aggressive washing. Getting this wrong exposes the brand to product liability and damages customer trust when garments are damaged by following the care label.
The care instruction section should also note whether the garment has been pre-shrunk and what residual shrinkage the customer can expect. This information informs the care symbol selection — a garment with significant remaining shrinkage should not carry a high-heat drying symbol.
Packaging specifications document how the finished garment is prepared for shipment and retail. This includes the folding method, hang tag placement and attachment method, polybag dimensions and thickness, sticker placement, and whether garments are packed individually or in sets by size or color.
Retail packaging specifications are particularly important if the garments are going directly to a retailer who has their own packaging standards. Non-compliant packaging is a common source of chargebacks from major retailers. The tech pack must specify exactly how the finished product is to arrive — folded or hung, individual or multi-pack, barcode placement, and any special handling instructions for fragile decoration elements such as embellishments or prints that can offset.
Building a tech pack from scratch is manageable when the sections are completed in the right order. Starting with the design overview and working through to packaging ensures that each section informs the next rather than creating conflicts that need to be resolved later.
Here is the recommended sequence and what to complete at each stage.
The most common tech pack error is starting to write specifications before the design is finalized. Every change made to the garment after the tech pack is started requires updates across multiple sections simultaneously — measurements, construction, label placement, and materials may all be affected. Finalizing the silhouette, construction approach, and all major design details before the document is opened saves significant revision time.
This does not mean the tech pack cannot evolve through sampling. It means the starting point should be a committed design decision rather than an exploratory sketch. The tech pack is a specification document, not a design tool.
Draw the technical flat from front and back with all construction details visible. Add detail views for any complex areas — pocket construction, waistband attachment, collar stand, cuff opening. Label every detail with a callout that references the relevant specification section. Complete the design overview page with the style number, season, colorways, and garment category.
This flat sketch becomes the visual reference for every other section in the tech pack. When the construction section references the left-chest pocket, the factory looks at the flat sketch. When the label placement section references the center back collar, the factory looks at the flat sketch. Accuracy here prevents misreads throughout the entire document.
List every component of the garment and specify each one in full. Start with the shell fabric and work through lining, interlining, and all trims in the order they appear on the garment from the outside in. For each component, write the full specification including fiber content, GSM where applicable, construction, color with Pantone reference, and any performance or certification requirements.
Identify which components will be provided by the factory from approved sources and which will be supplied by the brand. Factory-supplied materials must have approved substitutes documented in case the primary source is unavailable. Brand-supplied materials must have clear instructions for delivery, storage, and handling before they are incorporated into production.
Start with the base size measurement chart. Identify every point of measure on the garment and document the measurement method for each. Assign target measurements and tolerances for the base size. Then build the graded size chart by applying the grade rule to every POM for every size in the range. Review the graded chart for internal consistency — if the chest increases by 2cm per size, the corresponding armhole must also increase proportionally.
Have someone who was not involved in creating the chart review it independently before sending to the factory. Transposition errors in measurement charts are common and costly. A chest width recorded as 54cm when it should be 45cm is the kind of error that passes a visual review but produces an unwearable sample.
Complete the construction, label placement, and packaging sections using the flat sketch as the visual reference throughout. Every specification in these sections should be traceable back to a visible element on the flat sketch. If a construction detail is specified but not visible in the sketch, add a detail view rather than relying on text description alone.
Write the care instruction content and specify the symbols based on actual wash test data for the specified fabric. If the fabric has not been tested yet because sampling has not begun, note the intended care instructions as provisional and flag them for confirmation after the first sample is produced.
Every tech pack must carry a version number, a creation date, and a record of all revisions made since the original. When a revised tech pack is sent to the factory, the version number and revision date must be updated. The factory must confirm receipt of the updated document before production continues. Producing to an outdated tech pack version is one of the most common causes of bulk production errors that is entirely preventable through version control.
Distribute the tech pack in a format the factory can access reliably. PDF is the standard for final specifications. Editable source files should be retained by the brand but not sent to the factory to avoid unauthorized modification. If the factory needs a template in a specific format, provide a locked version.
The same errors appear repeatedly across brands of all sizes. Knowing what they are before starting a tech pack prevents the most expensive problems.
Missing tolerances: Every measurement without a tolerance forces the factory to decide what is acceptable. Without a defined standard, the factory cannot fail or pass a garment, and quality control becomes a negotiation rather than a verification process.
No grade rule documentation: Sending a graded size chart without the underlying grade rule means the factory cannot verify whether the chart is internally consistent. Errors in graded charts are common and produce garments where proportions break across the size range.
Ambiguous color references: “Red” is not a color specification. Pantone references or approved physical standards must be provided for every color in every component. Metamerism — where a color appears to match under one light source but not another — is a common problem when color is not specified precisely.
Provisional materials without follow-up: Listing a material as “TBD” or “similar to sample” without a firm specification before sampling begins forces the factory to make a sourcing decision that the brand has not approved. This results in samples built on the wrong material that require re-sampling after the material is finally confirmed.
No packaging specification: Brands frequently complete the garment spec thoroughly and then leave packaging undefined. When the factory packs to its own standard, the brand receives goods that do not meet retailer requirements and faces chargebacks on the first order.
Tech packs can be built in several formats depending on the brand’s workflow and the factory’s requirements. Each has practical trade-offs in terms of flexibility, version control, and collaboration.
Adobe Illustrator is the industry standard for tech packs that require high-quality flat sketches integrated with specification tables. The flat sketch is built in the same file as the spec sheets, which keeps the visual and written specifications in sync. The trade-off is that Illustrator requires design software skills and is not well-suited for collaborative editing across teams.
Excel or Google Sheets is widely used for measurement charts and costing sheets where numerical data dominates. Shared spreadsheet formats work well for collaborative review across time zones but are not ideal for integrating technical sketches. Many brands use a hybrid approach — Illustrator for the visual and construction pages, spreadsheets for the measurement and BOM sections.
Dedicated PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) software such as Techpacker, Stitchly, or Backbone PLM provides structured templates specifically built for apparel tech packs. These platforms include version control, factory communication tools, and standardized field definitions. The investment in software and onboarding time is justified for brands running multiple styles per season.
Regardless of the format, the content requirements are the same. A tech pack built in a basic Word document with accurate, complete specifications will outperform a tech pack built in expensive PLM software with missing information.
MFG Merch works with brands at every stage of tech pack development, from reviewing an existing draft for production readiness to helping new brands build their first complete specification from a design concept. Our production team flags common errors like missing tolerances, provisional materials, incomplete grade charts before sampling begins so they do not become sample rejection issues.
For brands new to manufacturing, we provide guidance on measurement point selection appropriate for the garment category, material specification standards, and construction documentation that aligns with the capabilities of our production facilities. A tech pack that is complete and production-ready reduces sampling rounds, shortens the time from design to approved sample, and significantly reduces the risk of bulk production errors.
Visit mfgmerch.com to discuss your tech pack requirements with our production team or to review our OEM apparel manufacturing capabilities.
Yes. Even a basic t-shirt has enough variables — fabric weight, yarn count, finishing treatment, label placement, measurement specs across a full size range, care instructions, and packaging — to cause significant problems in bulk production if they are not specified. The simpler the garment appears, the easier it is to underestimate how many decisions the tech pack needs to document.
A reference garment is useful context but is not a substitute for a tech pack. The factory cannot determine your fabric specification from a physical sample without lab testing. The factory cannot know which measurements are intentional and which are the result of the reference garment having stretched or shrunk. And the factory has no documented standard to check bulk production against after the sample is approved.
There is no target page count. A simple knit basic may be fully specified in 8 to 12 pages. A complex outerwear piece with multiple components, special operations, and retailer-specific packaging may require 20 to 30 pages. The test is completeness, not length. Every question a factory could ask about how to build the garment should be answered somewhere in the document.
A spec sheet is typically a single-page measurement summary used during production QC checks. A tech pack is the full specification document that includes everything from the flat sketch and material specs through construction, labels, and packaging. Every tech pack contains a spec sheet, but a spec sheet alone is not a tech pack.
Every change to the garment — material, measurement, construction detail, label placement, or packaging — requires an update to the tech pack with a new version number before the next production step begins. Sending verbal or email updates without updating the document creates a split record where the written spec and the actual production instruction no longer agree. The tech pack is always the authoritative source.
The factory will either make assumptions to fill in the gaps or stop production and wait for clarification. Both outcomes are costly. Factory assumptions produce samples that do not match the brand’s intent, requiring additional sampling rounds. Production stops add lead time and may affect the brand’s window for seasonal delivery. The cost of producing a complete tech pack upfront is always lower than the cost of correcting the errors an incomplete one creates.
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