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Types of knit fabric are defined by their unique loop structures, which determine the stretch, recovery, and durability of a finished garment. Choosing the correct construction involves balancing weight, measured in grams per square meter, with fiber composition to ensure the fabric meets specific performance requirements for activewear, loungewear, or high-end basics. Most commercial production relies on weft-knit structures like jersey and interlock, though warp-knitted options like tricot provide the stability needed for technical athletic apparel.
This article provides a technical breakdown of the most common knit constructions used in modern apparel manufacturing. You will learn to identify the structural differences between single and double knits, understand how GSM affects garment drape, and recognize which fabrics are best suited for specific decoration methods. By the end, you will have the technical vocabulary and specification data needed to make informed sourcing decisions for your next production run.
Single jersey is the most recognizable knit in the apparel industry and serves as the foundation for the majority of custom t-shirt manufacturing projects globally. It is a weft-knit fabric made with a single set of needles, resulting in a distinct face side with vertical V-shaped stitches and a back side with horizontal loops. This construction is lightweight, breathable, and offers a natural mechanical stretch even without the addition of synthetic fibers.
In a production environment, single jersey typically ranges from 130 to 180 GSM for standard tees, while heavy-weight versions can reach 240 GSM. Because of its single-needle construction, the fabric has a tendency to curl toward the face side when cut, which requires experienced handling during the sewing phase. It is highly compatible with screen printing and DTG (Direct-to-Garment) processes due to its smooth surface, though it is prone to 5% to 8% shrinkage if not properly heat-set during finishing.
This fabric is the gold standard for casual basics and lightweight layering pieces. While 100% cotton is the traditional choice, many modern brands opt for a 95% cotton and 5% spandex blend to ensure the collar and body maintain their shape after multiple washes. It is the most cost-effective knit to produce at scale, making it the primary choice for high-volume retail programs.
Rib knit is characterized by its raised vertical cords, created by alternating knit and purl stitches within the same row. This structure creates a highly elastic fabric with much greater crosswise stretch than single jersey. Manufacturers typically produce rib knits in 1×1 or 2×2 configurations, referring to the number of knit columns versus purl columns, which dictates the texture and recovery strength.
Production managers often use ribbing for finishing components like neckbands, cuffs, and waistbands because it hugs the body without losing its shape. However, full-body rib garments have become a staple in contemporary fashion, particularly for form-fitting tops and dresses. The weight usually falls between 180 and 350 GSM, providing a substantial feel that offers more opacity than lightweight jersey.
When sourcing rib knit, the recovery factor is more important than the initial stretch. A high-quality rib should return to its original width immediately after being pulled. Because of the textured surface, intricate screen prints can sometimes crack when the fabric is stretched, so embroidery or small-scale heat transfers are often preferred for branding.
Interlock is a variation of a rib knit, but it is constructed using two sets of needles to create a double-knit fabric. This results in a material that looks the same on both sides and is significantly thicker and more stable than single jersey. Interlock does not curl at the edges when cut, which makes it a favorite for high-efficiency cutting rooms and premium apparel lines.
The double-knit structure provides a smooth, luxurious hand feel and excellent opacity, even in lighter colors. It is the preferred choice for apparel sourcing and production when the goal is a “luxury basic” that feels substantial. Standard weights for interlock range from 220 to 300 GSM, making it ideal for polos, high-end t-shirts, and children’s wear where durability is a priority.
Because the fabric is composed of two layers of loops, it offers better thermal insulation than single-layer knits. It also takes dye very well, resulting in deep, vibrant colors that resist fading. For decoration, the smooth surface on both sides allows for versatile placement of prints or embroidery without the distortion common in lighter fabrics.
French terry is a versatile mid-weight knit that features a smooth face and a back side with unbrushed loops. This construction allows the fabric to absorb moisture while remaining breathable, which is why it is the dominant choice for bulk hoodie production and activewear. It is heavier than jersey but lighter than most cold-weather fleece.
In production, French terry is often categorized by the size of the loops on the back, ranging from “micro-terry” to “heavy-loop” varieties. The weight typically sits between 250 and 450 GSM. It provides a structured drape that holds its shape well, making it suitable for oversized silhouettes and streetwear styles that require a certain “boxiness.”
The fabric is usually a blend of cotton and polyester or cotton and rayon, which helps with moisture management and reduces the overall weight of the garment. It is highly compatible with screen printing on the smooth face, but designers should be aware that the looped back can sometimes “ghost” through to the front if the print pressure is too high. It is a staple for year-round collections in the North American market.
Pique knit is characterized by a textured, geometric pattern on the face of the fabric, often appearing as a honeycomb or waffle-like structure. This is achieved using a specific dobby attachment on the knitting machine. The texture creates a larger surface area, which helps with breathability and moisture evaporation, making it the standard for athletic polo shirts.
Most pique fabrics are produced in weights between 180 and 240 GSM. The texture provides a level of formality that flat knits lack, allowing it to bridge the gap between casual and professional wear. While 100% cotton pique is common for traditional polos, many modern performance brands use polyester-spandex blends to provide UV protection and moisture-wicking properties.
The textured surface can be challenging for fine-detail screen printing, as the ink may not settle evenly into the recesses of the knit. Consequently, embroidery is the most common decoration method for pique garments. It is a very stable fabric with low torque, meaning the side seams are less likely to twist after washing compared to single jersey.
Ponte de Roma, often simply called Ponte, is a heavy-weight double-knit fabric that offers the comfort of a knit with the structural integrity of a woven. It is made using two sets of needles and usually incorporates a blend of rayon, nylon, and spandex. This combination results in a fabric that is incredibly stable, has a firm drape, and resists wrinkles.
Ponte is typically found in weights ranging from 300 to 400 GSM. Because of its thickness and “beefy” hand feel, it is widely used for professional trousers, blazers, and structured dresses. It provides a four-way stretch that is more controlled than jersey, offering a slimming effect that is highly valued in women’s contemporary fashion.
From a production standpoint, Ponte is a dream to work with because it does not fray or curl, and it holds creases well. However, the high synthetic content means it requires specific disperse dyes and lower heat settings during any transfer printing to avoid scorching the fibers. It is a premium fabric that commands a higher price point in retail environments.
Tricot is the most common type of warp-knit fabric, where the yarns run lengthwise along the fabric rather than crosswise. This construction creates a unique zigzag pattern on the back and a smooth, vertical rib on the face. Tricot is exceptionally stable and does not run or ravel, which is essential for high-performance athletic gear and swimwear.
Most tricot used in apparel manufacturing is made from synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon blended with high percentages of spandex (often 15% to 25%). This allows for extreme four-way stretch and recovery. Weights vary significantly based on the end use, from 40 GSM for lingerie lining to 220 GSM for compression leggings.
Tricot is the preferred substrate for sublimation printing because the high polyester content absorbs the dyes perfectly, resulting in vivid, permanent graphics. It is also used extensively as a backing for laminated fabrics or as a lining for outerwear. Because it is a warp knit, it requires specialized machinery that is different from standard circular knitting setups.
Fleece is essentially a heavy-weight weft knit that has been brushed on one or both sides to create a soft, nap-like surface. This brushing process traps air, providing excellent thermal insulation without adding excessive weight. It is the primary fabric for cold-weather sportswear and outdoor gear, typically ranging from 280 to 500 GSM.
In the factory, fleece starts as a heavy French terry or jersey. It is then passed through a napping machine where wire brushes lift the fibers of the yarn to create the “fuzz.” Polar fleece is usually 100% polyester, while sweatshirt fleece is often a 80/20 cotton-poly blend. The polyester content is crucial for maintaining the loft of the nap after repeated washings.
When printing on fleece, manufacturers must be careful of “bleed” or “migration,” where the dye from the polyester fibers seeps into the printing ink. This is especially common with 100% polyester fleece. High-opacity inks or “poly-blocker” base layers are required to ensure the print stays crisp and bright. Fleece is a high-volume staple for any brand launching a fall or winter collection.
| Option | Key detail | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Single Jersey | 130-180 GSM, curls at edges | Standard T-shirts |
| Interlock | 220-300 GSM, double-sided | Premium basics |
| French Terry | 250-450 GSM, looped back | Hoodies and Joggers |
| Ponte de Roma | 300-400 GSM, very stable | Professional wear |
| Tricot | High spandex, warp knit | Swim and Activewear |
GSM (grams per square meter) is the most effective way to communicate with a factory. Weight determines more than just thickness; it dictates the drape, the cost of shipping, and the perceived value of the garment. For example, a 140 GSM jersey is appropriate for a summer weight tee, but it will lack the “substance” consumers expect from a premium streetwear brand.
In my experience managing production floors, the most common mistake is selecting a weight that is too light for the intended silhouette. A 180 GSM fabric might work for a fitted tee, but if you are designing an oversized “drop shoulder” shirt, you need a minimum of 220 to 250 GSM to ensure the sleeves don’t collapse. Heavier knits hold the architectural shape of the pattern, whereas light knits follow the contours of the body.
Opacity is another critical factor linked to weight. For white or light-colored garments, a low GSM often results in sheer-out issues. I always recommend a minimum of 200 GSM for white t-shirts to ensure they are not transparent. For leggings, the “squat test” is the industry standard—if the fabric is below 260 GSM, there is a high risk of the fabric becoming transparent when stretched over the glutes.
Production failure in knits usually stems from two issues: spirality and burst strength. Spirality, also known as “torque,” occurs when the knit loops are slanted rather than vertical. This causes the side seams of a t-shirt to twist toward the front after washing. In professional manufacturing, we test for this by measuring the displacement of the seam; any torque exceeding 5% is generally considered a factory second.
I have seen entire production runs ruined because the manufacturer didn’t account for the “relaxation shrinkage” of the fabric. Knits are under tension during the knitting and dyeing process. If the fabric is not allowed to rest for 24 to 48 hours after being unrolled and before being cut, it will shrink significantly the moment it is laundered. This is why “stress-free” spreading is a mandatory requirement for high-quality knit production.
Another common failure is “needle cutting” or “pinholes” along the seams. This happens when the sewing needle is too blunt or the wrong size for the knit structure, causing it to break the yarn rather than sliding between the loops. For most jersey and interlock production, a ballpoint needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) is essential to prevent these holes from developing after the first few wears. Always check the seam strength using a burst test, ensuring the fabric can withstand at least 200 kPa of pressure for activewear applications.
The fiber content of your knit is just as important as the stitch type. Cotton is the most popular choice for its breathability and soft hand, but it lacks dimensional stability. By adding 5% spandex (Lycra), you significantly improve the fabric’s recovery, which prevents the “baggy” look that often plagues 100% cotton garments after a few hours of wear. This is a non-negotiable for leggings and fitted tops.
Polyester blends are essential for any garment intended for heavy use or athletic performance. Polyester increases the tensile strength of the knit and makes it more resistant to shrinking and wrinkling. A common “workhorse” blend in the industry is the 60/40 CVC (Chief Value Cotton), which offers the comfort of cotton with the durability and cost-effectiveness of polyester. This blend is particularly effective for high-volume promotional or uniform programs.
For brands targeting the luxury or sustainable markets, Tencel (Lyocell) and Modal knits are increasingly popular. These regenerated cellulose fibers have a silk-like drape and a cool-to-the-touch feel. However, they are more difficult to sew because they are “slippery” and have high drape, meaning they don’t hold structure well. When using these fibers, I often suggest blending them with a small amount of synthetic fiber to give the knit more “body” and prevent it from becoming too limp.
Selecting the right knit structure is the most critical technical decision in your development process, as it dictates everything from your garment’s longevity to its retail price point. Now that you have a clear understanding of how GSM, fiber blends, and stitch constructions interact, the next step is translating these specifications into a physical prototype that matches your brand’s vision.
At MFG Merch, we assist brands in bridging the gap between design concepts and industrial-grade execution. Our team provides comprehensive support throughout the sourcing process, from selecting the appropriate knit structures and verifying fiber compositions to managing complex print applications and rigorous quality control protocols. We maintain an agile production environment capable of handling custom sampling requirements through to large-scale, consistent bulk manufacturing runs.
If you are ready to move your next collection into production, we invite you to consult with our technical team. Reach out today to discuss your fabric requirements and start the development process for your upcoming line.
The ideal GSM depends entirely on the silhouette and intended end-use of the garment. For structured or oversized pieces, we recommend higher GSM fabrics (220+) to ensure the garment holds its shape, whereas fitted or base-layer items typically require lighter weights (130–180 GSM) for comfort and mobility. Always consider the “squat test” for leggings or the “transparency check” for white t-shirts to ensure your chosen weight meets performance expectations.
Seam twisting, or spirality, is primarily caused by the tension applied during the knitting and dyeing process. To mitigate this, ensure your manufacturer performs “stress-free” spreading and allows the fabric to relax for at least 24 hours before cutting. Partnering with a factory like MFG Merch ensures that these relaxation protocols are strictly followed, significantly reducing the risk of side-seam torque in your finished inventory.
While 100% cotton offers a natural feel and high breathability, it lacks the memory required to maintain a garment’s shape over time. Adding 3% to 5% spandex provides the necessary recovery to prevent common issues like bagging at the elbows, stretched-out necklines, or loose waistbands. For modern retail brands, a 95/5 cotton-spandex blend is widely considered the industry standard for high-quality basics.
Production costs are driven by the volume of yarn used and the complexity of the knitting process. Simple single jersey constructions are generally the most cost-effective, while double-knit structures like interlock or Ponte de Roma require more yarn and more complex machinery, resulting in a higher price per yard. When budgeting, balance your aesthetic goals with the structural requirements of the garment to find the most efficient material solution.
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